Customs in celebrating this day vary from place to place. For example, Chinese followers of Buddhism also avoid meat on this day. The people from the Fukien province are fond of preparing a special soup with seven health-promoting ingredients to counteract ill-health while those in Chekiang eat Peace Dumplings to bring peace to the country.
In Singapore and Malaysia, Yu Sheng or "raw fish" dish is served instead. People get together to toss the colorful salad and make wishes for continued wealth and prosperity. The belief is that the higher the salad is tossed in the air, the more good fortune can be expected. Long noodles are also eaten to symbolize longevity.
Origins
It is believed that Yu Sheng has its origins in southern part of China. Legend has it that a young man and his girlfriend found themselves stranded by bad weather at a temple with nothing to eat but a carp they had caught. Chancing upon a bottle of vinegar, they added this to the stripped carp and found it quite appetizing. Local chefs in Singapore are credited for developing Yu Sheng as we know it today. They named the dish "Lucky Raw Fish" and popularized it as a Chinese New Year delicacy.
Ingredients
Arranged on a large serving plate, the colorful array of ingredients include raw fish, shredded green and white radish, shredded carrots, pickled ginger, crushed nuts and Pomelo. The ingredients are topped with various condiments including deep-fried flour crisps, crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, cinnamon, pepper and other spices.
All at the table would then jointly toss the salad with a generous portion of plum sauce and cooking oil to add sweetness and taste.
Rituals and Meanings
Yu Sheng plays on the homonyms where Yu means "fish" but enunciated appropriately, it also means "abundance"; and Sheng means literally "raw" but enunciated appropriately, it means "life". Thus Yu Sheng implies "abundance of wealth and long life". In Cantonese it is known as Lo Sheng with Lo also meaning "tossing up good fortune". The tossing action is called Lo Hei, which means to "rise" (Hei), again a reference to a thriving business and thus its popularity with businessmen during the Chinese New Year.
All the different parts of the salad are brought to the table in separate plates, and been mixed in front of you, in a certain order and with some greetings.
Here is the recipe for you to do at home
The ingredients mixed by pushing them toward the centre, an encouragement to push on the good luck of all at the table. |
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Variations
In early Singapore, restaurants in Chinatown would deliver Yu Sheng direct to customers. Their delivery assistants would balance the ingredients on a wooden tray placed on their heads. One serving would be placed on a pedestal dish and it would be covered with a conical tin, with the condiments wrapped like a red envelope or red packet. Young children were not encouraged to consume it as it was thought to trigger epilepsy. The dish was popular with the Cantonese, although the Teochews ate a simpler version where raw fish is dipped in sweet sauce.
Today, in more innovative and more expensive versions, salmon is used or is replaced with lobster and abalone. The vegetables include odd additions like the kiwi fruit, its jade-like green a symbol of prosperity. Various versions are also served at restaurants from Japanese Yu Sheng which have thick slices of sashimi to even Italian Yu Sheng which have Lasagna instead of noodles!